Dominica – The Nature Island
November 29 to December 9, 2000
Author: Robert Stern

Why Dominica?

            We looked for a good dive site in the Caribbean to celebrate 40 years of marriage.  Our specifications were for some place we had not yet dived and which would offer land based opportunities as well as enjoyable dives.  Thanks to suggestions from the RSD board

( some not so intelligent, some great) we narrowed our selection to St. Lucia or Dominica.  Final choice was Castle Comfort Lodge (CCL) located on the Southwest coast of Dominica.  This decision was made due to the added potential for whale watching (www.divedominica.com). 

Travel Arrangements: American Airlines from Baltimore, Maryland direct to San Juan.  American Eagle direct from San Juan to Melville Airport in Dominica.  The same going home.

We do not have dive bags.  Each of us has one large, four wheel, upright, Samsonite bag.  Each bag contains full dive gear and clothing, except for tanks and weights.  Maximum weight permitted is 70 pounds.  These weighed in at 66-67 each.  We also check one small suitcase with toiletries and meds.  We each wear a backpack which contains regulator, mask, log book, bathing suit, tee shirt, cameras and important meds.  I have added this description because of the problems others and we have encountered with “dive bags and airlines”.

            Travel Issue: Upon arrival in Dominica, two of our three checked bags were missing their combination lock and cable tie.  A quick check revealed that my packing had not been disturbed, indicating physical loss as compared to theft.  American Eagle was advised that I would call them following a complete inventory the next day.

Hotel Arrangements: Castle Comfort Lodge reservations included transfers. We were met by Ken’s Hinterland Adventure Tour and Travel Service (KHATTS) and traveled overland to CCL.  The trip was as everyone had promised.  More than 90 minutes of in, around, over, under and through the mountains on a one lane road in the rain on the wrong side of the road.  I didn’t know my wife could keep her eyes closed or be so quiet for that long a time.  The airport is on the Central East Coast and you must travel over the mountains (volcanic) to the West Coast.  We went through several small towns, the rain forest, banana plantations and a small sea port.

CCL is located just south of the town of Rosseau. 

Castle Comfort Lodge dive packages include breakfast and dinner.  Food is local style and the first evening, our choice was either flying fish or curried goat.  The kitchen staff is very accommodating of crazy Americans.  Each morning we had our cereal and one cookie.  In the evenings we had whatever the meat was.  They knew we only liked fish alive and on the reef.  Our room was over the dive shop.  We NEVER had problems with road noise as some had warned.  Rooms were clean, plenty of towels and lots of very hot water. 

Diving:  Dive Dominica is their on-site dive operation.  They service other hotels and the few cruise ships that visit using three large, well-equipped boats.  The dive operation, the dive masters and the entire dive portion of the trip was as well run as any we have experienced.  Each day, our gear was on the boat.  We were responsible for our wet suits, only.  They washed and took care of our gear the entire time.  The package includes two morning dives every day, one evening dive, and shore diving is unlimited.  Dive boats return about 1:00 PM for lunch and the rest of each day free.  Twice a week they also run a “whale and dolphin watch” which is not included in the package.

Diving was almost exclusively in the southwest at the marine park.  Sites included Dangle Ben’s Reef, The Abyss, Scott’s Head Reef, Point Guignard, Dangle Ben’s Pinnacle, Champagne Reef, Souffrier Pinnacles, Cachicou Pinnacle, and Scott’s Head Drop Off.  All dives were at a mooring site.  Many ended in 15-20 feet and safety stops were mandatory.  Miriam and I always try to do 25 feet for two minutes and then 15 feet for three (old people tissues)…and there was no complaint ever raised about us “delaying” the dive.  One dive we entered at the Scott’s Head Drop Off mooring and the boat picked us up at Scott’s Head Reef.  One trip to the northwest gave us Rodney’s Rock.  Visibility was not too great and this was their reason for staying more to the south.  First dive was usually 60-90 feet with the second maximum at 50 feet.  Dive Dominica is a very conservative, conservation sensitive and safe operation.  Beginning divers would not have problems.  All air - no Nitrox available.

Reef life was generally small.  As we had been told, there are few large critters.  One nice ray was the only large life we saw on the 16-dive trip.  Photos are at:  http://members3.clubphoto.com/robert232202/Dominica_Trip_in_December_2000.

Life encountered almost each day included a large quantity of speckled moray, sea horse, squid, trumpetfish, sand diver, squirrelfish, spotted drum, ballonfish, trunkfish and peacock flounder.  Less than ordinary sightings included a yellow-stripped moray (tiger?), scorpionfish, frogfish, bristleworms, wreck of an old ship and the largest coral crab I have ever seen. The night dive at Champagne Reef lasted more than 45 minutes.  We also did several shore dives off their pier. Day and night dive and snorkel was encouraged and worth the time.  There is a very active community living in the 15-30 feet area right in front of the Lodge.  The resident trumpetfish that stays under the pier is at least 4 feet long (although the book says they only get to 3 feet).

Coral and sponges seemed very healthy.  I can understand why there is talk of banning cameras.  The lack of some divers to be aware of their surroundings and take care not to damage the coral when taking photos is very disheartening.  I am a firm believer that reef awareness, buoyancy and photography techniques should be mandatory classes for all divers.  (Go ahead, flame all you want).

Dolphin and Whale Watching trip is a must.  There are several resident pods and the ability to view these animals is a well-spent afternoon.  The trip runs from 2:00-6:00PM and Dive Dominica claims a 96% probability of sighting.   We actually saw about 6-8 mothers and calves on our trip.  No dive or snorkel is permitted.

Island trips, shore diving or lazing at the pool and hot tub are afternoon entertainment.  If you are into hiking, this is the place.  There are unlimited places to mountain climb, nature walk or explore.  It is truly the Nature Island.  We opted for a one day escorted drive with minimum hiking.  KHATTS took us north up the West Coast, around the north end, and down the East Coast.  Stops included the town of Portsmouth, Cabrits National Park, Caribe Village and the Emerald Pool.  That is a good way to see the island without the problems inherent with driving in a unique situation. Miriam actually had her eyes OPEN for most of the trip.  We went from Caribbean side to Atlantic and back to Caribbean. 

 We decided to “jump ship” for dinner on two evenings.  One dinner with new friends was at the “Laughing Lobster” - a local place recommended by the dive masters.  The other evening we put on our dressiest casual clothes and had a fantastic “anniversary” continental dinner at the Fort Young Hotel.  The Fort Young is located in Rousseau and could be an alternative to staying at Castle Comfort.  It is more cosmopolitan, and Dive Dominica picks up at the dock.  The down side is that it is the busiest place in town, no shore diving, no full dive shop, and right at the cruise ship pier.   We were happy to return to the solitude of Castle Comfort.

All too soon, our 11 days were up.

Hotel issue: I had, for lack of common sense, sent as deposit, a personal check for $500 to Castle Comfort.  They never told me it was not received, although we talked several times by email.  Upon checkout, I realized I did not have a $500 credit.  Apparently the check was stolen and cashed in the Dominican Republic.  All I knew was that it had been cashed about three weeks after I mailed it.  It was necessary for me to credit card the entire bill and hope to recover my $500 later.  The U.S. bank is working on it, but I’m not too hopeful.  Lesson learned. 

 Transfer to-from the airport (on the OTHER side of the mountain) is included.  KHATTS picked us up and we got more of an island education on the way back to Melville Airport.  American Eagle was on time.  The stewardesses were very accommodating.  They took the large Caribe basket we had purchased and were hand carrying.  It did not go with the luggage and was safely stored for the trip to San Juan.  American’s people at San Juan also took care of it and it arrived, with us, in perfect shape. 

Summary Comments: We have experienced dive-dedicated resorts on both sides of the world.  In my opinion, it is wrong to compare Pacific to Caribbean.  Therefore, we will attempt to base our opinion of Dominica, Castle Comfort Lodge and Dive Dominica solely on that operation.  The lodge is as comfortable, hospitable, clean and safe an operation as you will likely find anywhere in the Caribbean.  The owners, Derek and Ginette Perryman, go out of their way to make you feel welcome and appreciated.  Ginette runs the lodge, Derek the dive shop.  It is a class operation.  The food is local style and the kitchen staff does a great job keeping you fed and happy.  PS:  The bar is great, too…. For us, only when the diving week ended.  Dive Dominica is a well-run operation.  They pay a great deal of attention to safety, comfort and preservation.  We never had more than eight divers on a boat and they will always go out, if it is safe.  No matter how few are diving.  The days that cruise ships were in, the operation concentrated primarily on large snorkel trips.  However, we would pick up one or two divers from the ship and take them with us.  The boats were never uncomfortable.  We were never impacted negatively by the cruise ship operations.  The reefs and life were very healthy.  There was, as expected, a lack of large pelagic life.  Dominica is a beautiful and lush island.  The fruit, coffee and people are fantastic.  For a family of divers and non-divers who like to hike, it is perfect.  If you like nightlife, forget it.  This island is attuned to conservation, ecology and the preservation of their forests.  They are actively making more and more areas above the water and under the water protected sites.

We will likely go back in a few years.  First, there are many other places to see and dive.  For us, the Dominican Republic in March 2001.

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