As we attempt to put together our thoughts, experiences, suggestions, tips and commentaries about this memorable trip we have just returned from, it is necessary to go back to the origin of "the dream ".

As a teenager growing up in Italy, I was introduced to this paradise on earth by a beautifully filmed movie starring an actor by the name of Enrico Maria Salerno. It was titled "Odissea Nuda"("Nude Odyssey"), directed by Franco Rossi (thanks J.N.). It was the classic escapistic tale of a middle-aged, balding, Italian middle-class man, married with children, who is sent for business to that part of the world and, very predictably, in no time he forgets all his bourgeois ties with "civilization". The place literally bewitches him, enslaves his senses and makes him fall in love with the clean life and the innocent people of Polynesia. You must realize that when this movie was filmed, French Polynesia was still unreachable by the masses and it maintained its pristine, unspoiled feel. I believe that in most of us there is a little of the "hero" from the movie. And it has nothing to do with our love and commitment to our companions and offsprings, as they are never really competing with our state of mind; if anything they complement it by reminding us of what is truly important in life; by getting in touch with a primordial, purer way of life, we seek to get closer to the people we love and care for. As I left that theater I said to myself:"during my lifetime I must visit this place with the person I love"...My wife (we shall call her "Lori" from here on) has always been the one to believe that as long as your mind is set on a goal, you will find a way to accomplish it. As so she did! For our 25th Anniversary! Our story...

Day 1 - LOS ANGELES / TAHITI / BORA BORA - If not for the excitement of the final destination, possibly one of the more grueling days in this trip. It is also a very long day as we take off at 1:25 a.m. via Corsair, and, traveling in the same direction of the sun, end up in Bora Bora at 11:30 a.m., after a stop and plane change in Tahiti (local time). It was well worth the effort because we have arrived in Paradise! Flying Tip: for an exceptional view of Bora Bora choose seating on the left side of the plane, if available; you'll have a chance to take superb pictures of the island! Packing Tip: unless you end your trip in Tahiti, your final destination requires an additional flight via an Air Tahiti small propeller plane; their normal luggage weight limit is 10K(22lbs) per person; as a passenger originating from an international destination you are allowed a maximum 20K(44lbs).Be selective when you pack: 3 bathing suits, 1 toothbrush, snorkel equipment; waterproof sneakers; the rest, optional! (Yeah! Go tell that to your wife!) The heavy downpour which welcomed us upon arrival to Bora Bora did not manage to dampen our spirits; we knew that November to March was the rainy season and were prepared to accept occasional rain. We proceeded to our waiting ferry to Vaitape pier where after some confusion on which vehicle to board, we finally got to the Maitai where a welcome cocktail and the ever present shell necklace were waiting for us....After this exausting day we set up in our room for a deserved rest. We were happy to be able to eat dinner at the hotel restaurant which offered a varied menu based on local fish and New Zealand meats.

Day 2 to 7 - BORA BORA - Our hotel (Le Maitai Polynesie) proves to be a very good value for the money (3-star rating) and we find our room (garden/ocean view) quite clean and complete of every basic necessity. The "motu" shown in the picture to the right is the site of one of the two Sofitel hotels (the other is within walking distance of the "Maitai"). Two good reasons to mention this location: 1 - get yourself one of the available "outriggers" and scout the waters surrounding this motu; it is one of the best snorkeling locations; 2 - Sofitel Motu happens to have one of the better restaurants in the island (reservation required for non-guests). The main (and only) road that circles the island divides the Maitai property between the main building and the standard rooms and its beach area complete of overwater bungalows, also seen in the picture above. The beach is quite charming and this is where you can pickup any kayak or outrigger available (no charge). Also, for the less adventurous, you can do some snorkeling right here and view a decent amount of fish and coral. After a day immersed in unbelievably clean and mild pastel waters, we decide to view the lagoon which makes Bora Bora the world famous location that it deserves to be. We found that the "Shark feeding" all-day tour would be the most complete and interesting activity offered; for FCP 7000 p.p. you actually circle the island with stops for shark and ray feeding, coral garden snorkeling, barbecue on the outer reef beach, swimming with the rays (and touching), and finally return to your hotel after about 7 hours of great experiences. This is definitely the one to take if you have only one choice. As the following day did not promise too much sun, we rented a scooter for 24hr. (FCP 6500) and went around the island (35 Km); we also took advantage of our transportation to have dinner at the famed "Bloody Mary" (Bora Bora's version of The Hard Rock Cafe with sand replacing the floor); later we learned that the following day they closed for the season! As it can be seen from the above map, our hotel was situated in the middle of a cluster of other hotels, such as the Sofitel Coralia and the club Med to the north and the Beachcomber, the Bora Bora and the Matira Beach to the south and around the point. From the Beachcomber you can actually "walk" in knee deep water all the way to the outer reef (1.5 miles!); waterproof sandals definitely recommended. The "Shark feeding tour" is also useful to scout locations around the island where you may want to return on your own by renting a motor boat (70 FCP per half-day). This is what we did on the next sunny day; they also provide a cooler with ice where you can store drinks and perishables; down the road from us we discovered a mini market where we purchased drinks, a delicious chicken sandwich on a French baguette bread and some cheese and chips: we were now ready for our version of a picnic on the beach. The boat rental place, also down the road, included motorboats for 2-3 that do not require a license; after we described the place we wanted to revisit and got "nautical" directions on how to avoid shallow corals, we were off! It was quite charming to reach the splendid shallow lagoon complete with deserted beach and picnic tables where we spent a terrific afternoon. The last day of our stay we booked a dinner-buffet/special event offered by the nearby Sofitel (overpriced at 10000 FCP p.p.) and, on the spur of the moment, we joined two other couples for the famed "Jeep Tour"(70 FCP p.p.). The latter turned out to be a lot of fun both due to the driver and our companions (all U.S. east coasters). We climbed impossible trails from both sides of the island and were offered local fare, picked on the way, and incredible views of the lagoon seen from high grounds. I also recommend this tour, should you have the time. Most people we talked to chose the "Island-hopping" packages as opposed to staying put in Bora Bora like us. On this matter it should be said that while both concepts have merit, if you are looking for a more diversified vacation involving repacking your belongings and flying to other islands, definately choose the "island-hopping"; we decided to go straight to the most beautiful location and do all activities there. Even though we spent a week in Bora Bora we never found ourselves running out of things to do; in fact in our next visit we plan to do daily excursions to Maupiti Island, located 30 km west of Bora Bora which is famed to be also quite beautiful; the round trip ferry leaves at 8:30 a.m. and returns at 4:00 p.m. 3500 FCP p.p.

More Pictures

Overall impressions: this is unquestionably the most beautiful place we ever visited (we have been extensively to the Mediterranean basin, Florida, the Caribbean, Venezuela, Brazil and of course, the U.S.). Its beauty stems from the famous lagoon encircling the entire island with a series of almost completely connected "motus", but also, credit given to the French Government, from its pristine and unspoiled look (no McDonald here, at least so far); the contrast is even more dramatic when you stop over in Papeete for one day on the way back...The people here are gentle, low keyed and eager to please and help you. It is also the most expensive island in the archipelago but worth every penny...We are already planning a return trip!

Day 8 to 9- TAHITI . The flight from Bora Bora left around 12:00 noon arriving here 45 minutes later. Transfer to Sofitel Maeva Beach, minutes from the airport, was flawless. We receive a promise from the driver to be picked up, for the trip to the airport and our return home, at 6:00 p.m. the following day. We decide to stay put for the remainder of the day and enjoy the facilities (decent size swimming pool, private beach and for the more active-minded, tennis and mini golf). The following morning we decide to go "discover" Papeete. The well known "Le Truck" is an efficient and economical way (120 FCP) to move around within short distances (the city is about 7 Km. from the hotel) and all itineraries end up at the city market area. The capital city of French Polynesia is a bustling, busy place reminiscent of towns found in Aruba or St. Martin in the Caribbean, but with its own charm unique to this area. Lots of tourist shops and eateries (yes, also McDonald). Black pearls are (together with Vanilla beans) the main export on these islands and are plentiful, expensive and beautiful. I was lucky to take advantage of a sale in one of the resort shops in Bora Bora where I purchased a silver bracelet complete of medium size pearl for under 10000 FCP! Otherwise a good sized pearl will range anywhere from 25000 FCP and up. Our day in Papeete was enjoyable and helpful in gradually readjusting us with civilization in preparation to our return to Los Angeles, which became somewhat less painful. Our determination to return also made our departure easier. If you have a similar schedule as us, with a flight to the U.S. leaving in the evening, you may ask your hotel if you can keep your room until later in the afternoon: if they are not fully occupied, you will be accommodated. Once again out transfer three and a half hours prior departure to the Faa'a International Airport was flawless. Security lines for pre-screening of all luggage are long and slow; see our note referring to luggage carts below! Once past passport control, the waiting area offers comfortable seats, a restaurant and a couple of duty-free shops for last minute buys. Corsair is one of the few airlines that offer the LAX/PPT run and it proved reliable and adequate. If you wish to try for an emergency exit seat and related extra leg room, you may want to try checking-in even earlier as this flight is usually full.

Practical Tips: As dinner tends to be expensive, a late "buffet type" breakfast complete of pastries, fruit, ham, cakes, juice, coffee, etc., could be a good value and a way to avoid lunch. If you are planning to bring your travel coffee maker, make sure that it has a built-in voltage switch (110/220) and bring with you a plug adaptor (2 prongs, "skinny" version) or you will not be able to use it. Currency exchange from USD to FCP is more advantageous in banks than hotels (in the latter you loose about 20 points) and travelers checks have a better rate than paper currency. Do not be too eager to get rid of all your coins upon reaching the airport for the return trip; save at least one 100 FCP coin (copper color) to access a cart for your luggage; you will discover that no unattended cart is to be found, as everybody returns them to their station, where they collect back the coin! Tipping is truly unexpected and unnecessary in the islands unless you have a special reason such as rewarding your tour guide for an exceptionally good job. Renting both a motorboat and a scooter is also a good value as you can transport more than one person. Lightweight "pouch" type rain slickers are a good idea during rainy season. Your cellular will only work if it has "dual bands" but while it is almost the norm in Papeete, it should be left in your luggage, together with your "civilization-derived" frustrations, once you reach the islands. A quick way to convert mentally the local currency in USD is to remove the last two digits (ex.: 1000 FCP = 10 bucks). As the only "reasonable" cruise line to the islands declared chapter 11 after the September 11th events (you can still see the RR3 and 4 ships moored at the Papeete pier), the only other way to contain your expenses is to book a package from one of the several wholesalers specializing in French Polynesia; we went with "Islands in the Sun" and were very pleased with all arrangements and transfers.

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