Kenting, Taiwan

Author: J. Anthony (Reproduced with permission from J. Anthony, all rights reserved, 1999)

Kenting, southernmost tip of Taiwan, just inside Tropic of Cancer (c. 22 degrees North of Equator). Easy 90-120 minute drive from Kaio-sung Intl Airport, which is about a 50 minute flight from Taipei.

Shore dive from two spots, the first just West of the warm water outlet from the power plant. Dove with marine biologist who has been studying that reef for 20 years. Claims some decline in reef quality in the 12 years since the plant was built, but has documented some increase in biodiversity possibly due to slight increase in water temperature due to warm water discharge, plus intersection with Kuroshio current from direction of Philippines. Many soft coral species at 9-15 meter depth, most in great shape (e.g., Acropora cerealis, Gomiopora lobata, Tubastraea aurea, Siphonogorgis, Dendronephthya). More diversity than in many dive spots, approaching diversity of Australia Great Barrier Reef, though no huge coral heads at that depth. At this spot, coral was the attraction; not too many fish species. We didn't wander far off shore into the 20-30 meter depths, where he said there were large coral heads.

Second spot was a little farther East on Nanwan Road (main beachfront road). Dropped off about 1 km from dive shop, waded into surf and swam back to beach opposite shop. Here, many more fish species, including lionfish in dark and red phase (Pterois v.), boxfish (Rhynchostracion n.), hawkfish (Oxycirrhites t.) shrimpfish (Aeoliscus s.), schools of grunts (Pomadasyus a.) and what I think were fusiliers (e.g, Caesio c.), plus many different butterflyfish (e.g., Chaetodon t.) and damselfish and anemonefish (e.g., clownfish Amphiprion t.), as well as lobster. Coral wasn't super in this spot, but fish were the treat. The larger fish were ending up in the fish market, but we saw many specimens in the 1-33 cm range.

I enjoyed both of these dives, and rank them with other shore dives in the Marianas, and the U.S. Virgins. The coral diversity was something special at site 1, as was the fish diversity at site 2, though tending toward the macro level. I would not hesitate to make this a regular side trip on returns to Taiwan. There was much here to see.

The dive shop was Nanpei Diving, with Tsay Yeong Chuen as divemaster and solo dive buddy. TYC spoke little English, but it wasn't needed; our hand signals worked fine. He's a macrophotographer and videographer, and I was happy to tag along as he scouted for his lens. He spotted quite a few treats I otherwise would have missed. Booked through a middleman, the price wasn't cheap (c. US$100 for 2 tanks, all equipment), but I didn't haggle and was pleased with what I got. Fax them directly for a better quote: (08) 889-7747. There is an English-speaking divemaster, and the tel is (08) 889-5350.

Plenty of inexpensive (and expensive) lodging and eats in the area. Much to do during surface intervals as well. In mid-week mid-March, the place was sunny and warm and quite deserted. I understand that on weekends and during holidays (e.g., Chinese New Year), it's quite crowded.

Have fun.