Seychelles, 2001
Author: A. McCallum

My girlfriend and I recently visited Seychelles on vacation from my expat home in Moscow.  We got our diving licenses in Moscow (info available by request) just before leaving.  Diving was of secondary importance at first, but as it turns out was unforgettable.

Flights go through London, Paris, Frankfurt and Dubai depending on which airline you prefer.  We took Air France, though the best flight is Aeroflot through Dubai (Aerflot int'l is a GOOD flight, no kidding). Unfortunately, it flies only twice a week and schedules didn't match.  Flight time from Paris to Seychelles is 9-10 hours, direct.

We got in touch with Big Blue Divers on Mahi (the main island) (http://www.bigbluedivers.net/) after I called around to all the centers.  FYI, Big Blue is the most professional, most friendly around, and they are very reasonably priced with some perks (free pick-up from anywhere on the island, etc.)  Please understand that Seychelles, like many other destinations is a tropical world with a tropical lifestyle - most locals don't have a customer-service attitude. It is no Thailand. The people at Big Blue understand customer service.

We dove (dived for non-'Mericans) two full days, once with an amazing fresh fish cookout on an amazing beach (highly recommended) between dives.  Day one was in the National Reserve area, then around the Lighthouse. Good conditions, amazing reef - more types of fish, crustaceans, etc. than I could ever remember (lion fish, eagle rays, moray, parrot, trumpet, small sharks, turtles, barracuda, et al).   Day two at a sight 15 minutes from the shop. Visibility, current was not as good, but still had an amazing time.  Both dives were to 15-18m, 45-60 min.

I should have never started my ocean diving experiences in Seychelles.  I fear other spots will pale in comparison.

Here's the short version:

Seychelles - wonderful nature, beaches and diving, bizarre currency rules, can be VERY expensive or reasonable. Call a local or experienced visitor before booking hotels et al. Info on the Big Blue sight.  Whale sharks seasonally!
Get out of the hotel and you'll enjoy it more.
Weather is almost always around 28 degrees c.  Winds, currents change seasonally, making dive spots better, worse.

Big Blue - Run by husband/wife team (Seychellian/Dutch), professional, friendly with 1000's of hours experience.  Good team of young guides/instructors.  Multi-language (French, Creole, Dutch, German, English).  Rental equipment was fine. All levels welcomed.  Video/photo available (if not dropped overboard).  

Also, if you have a chance, visit the some of the small islands (tiny paradises).  

Other Seychelles hints:
1. Bring CASH
2. Bring CASH
3. Bring everything you think you will need, buying simple things can be tough or expensive if you're lucky, impossible if you're not; i.e. local shops don't have digital video cassettes
4.  Develop your film at home
5.  Look for a b and b, big hotels can be nice but are way overpriced
6.  Location of hotel is important, as travel around the island is tough
7.  Go for 10+ days, the trip is too long for any less (unless your flying in from Maritius).
8.  Some white clothes stain orange-ish from the water.
9.  If you're not a total tourist geek, go to the night club just south of the airport on a Saturday around 12:00-1:00 AM.  You'll have fun.

If you have the time to get there and either a ton of money or some good planning with a local contact, I HIGHLY recommend it.  If you are going to dive there, do yourself a favor and contact Big Blue before you go.  Thanks.

A. McCallum

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