From Zanzibar to Pemba on a liveaboard
Silke Schmidt - October 1999

Day 1:
I woke up early with much anticipation. On deck I could see the islands of Pemba approaching in the distance. The sun had barely come up and the other guests were still sleeping. Alone on the foredeck with a cup of coffee and the sound of the MV Illusions' double hull swishing through the water, I feel something primal in my body. I feel one with the planet and look up at the sky with a "Thank You" and also an apology from mankind.

Looking out over the Indian Ocean, I noticed a lot of splashes in the distance. Looking up at Chris in the wheelhouse, I saw him pointing his finger in the same direction. He came out with a big smile. "Dolphins" he says, without having to add anything else. Not long after, the sea was alive, carpeted with dolphins everywhere, and there were more arriving. I just had to yell out! This was going to be a good one.

Everyone was out on deck. Sleepy and blurry-eyed they soon became very animated when they saw the reason why Chris woke them. The dolphins stayed with us for a long time and I savoured every moment, hanging over the bow, hearing them whistle and seeing the blowholes opening up for a breath of air. They are so special.

We had our first dive off Mesali Island. The water was like a mirror, but the colours indescribable - aqua-aquamarine. The shallower parts were clearly distinguishable by the almost translucent light blue. The coral on the eastern side was very nice and the visibility was good, Neptune was smiling. Lots of little reef fish and goldies shining in the sun. We saw two turtles (or maybe the same one twice) Napoleon wrasse, lionfish and many blue-spotted morays.

Breakfast was served on deck. What bliss, having fresh fruit with a light breeze in your face and the best view on earth... or is it heaven?

We had two more dives around Mesali seeing a white tipped reef shark in the distance and a large school of pigmy mantas. The dives are dependent on the tides. An outgoing tide brings a lot of green water and Chris arranges the times to allow for the best possible visibility. At the end of the second dive, just where the water was starting to colour, we saw them. You almost think you can hear their wings flap, with mantas everywhere. We counted them ... 53. We stayed for the night and that evening around the dinner table, we had lots of tales to share with new-found friends.

Day 2:
Early morning we moved out to the next stop, Uvinje gap. There are so many small islands around that it almost becomes confusing. The ocean around Pemba is very deep and it becomes shallow very quickly close to land. That is why most of the dives are drop-offs with walls. At Uvinje the boat floated between the many submerged reefs, where we had a good day of diving before going around the closest island for protected anchorage. There is no end to this colourful place! We did three dives for the day on different sides of the reef. The tides were not noticeable and the dives were very relaxed. We saw schools of barracuda and kingfish... and a giant Manta.

I noticed a movement from the corner of my eye (and I still swear that I could hear those magnificent wings)... and there it was in its full glory.

We again had a lot of sharing to do over supper

Day 3:
We were really having a great time and Chris and Desiré were everywhere, working hard to take care of us and seeing that we were having a good time. The boat is very comfortable. I have been on two other liveaboards before that did not get close to the space and comfort we experienced here.

We finally arrived at Fundu Gap that kept on creeping into various discussions. We were looking forward to it. We arrived early and dived the Southern wall from the boat. The current was strong initially until we rounded the first corner.

The beautiful coral and excellent visibility was really worth the initial hard swim. So many fish, especially the unicorns and very big Napoleon wrasses. We saw three Green turtles, definitely not the same one three times. Just before the end of one of the morning dive, I saw a very large stingray.

In between dives, we took one of the twin-kayaks to the closest island where the locals come to collect food on low tide. The sand on the islands is very soft and some beautiful shells were everywhere. I was too scared of stinging animals inside to pick them up, but I have also noticed some large shells, especially cowries on the shallower parts during some of the dives.

Day 4:
We stayed at the same anchorage for another day's dive. I could have stayed another week. Manta point is really a good dive, although it does not live up to its name as far as mantas are concerned. We dived manta point twice during the day and once at night. Each time it was covered with fish: the small, the big, the ugly, the skittish and the inquisitive - they were all there. From the Oriental and two barred sweetlips, to big brown pufferfish, large groupers, and tiny leaffish and ghost pipefish. Manta point is a real jewel especially with good sunlight when the large schools of fusiliers can really show off. At one spot we found a large patch of garden eels, trying very much not to be noticed. The different species of jacks were all there, checking out the menu. Large schools of Giant trevally and Bigeye trevally intermingling with a few bluefins darting in between.

After one of the dives, we noticed a large school of dolphins again and gave chase with the RIB. They really enjoy playing with the boat. We tried several times to snorkel with them, but they were not interested. I think it is better that way; dolphins shouldn't be taught to trust humans - for their own sake. It was still special just watching them from so close.

Day 5:
The next gap was Njao. On our way there we stopped off, seemingly in the middle of nowhere, for our first dive of the day. A very deep cave, with cold water rushing from below and many different reef fish. Very good visibility. The fish seemed to be feeding, almost as if the cold water was rich in nutrients.

We anchored at Njao and dived the South and North walls of the entrance. The midday dive was a very fast drift dive, most enjoyable and very relaxing. Everything went by so quickly. At one stage when I looked over my shoulder a very inquisitive Napoleon wrasse came swimming from an overhang, but the current had taken me before we could be properly introduced.

In the afternoon we saw another large school of pigmy mantas. This time, we counted 57. We saw another turtle and a massive moray eel. Just before sunset Chris took us up the mangrove swamps. I have never been intrigued by mangrove swamps, and I never thought it could be so pretty. Following the meandering paths one almost got vertigo, because the water was so flat and the reflection gave the impression of a deep nothingness when travelling on it at speed. At the dead-end, with the RIB's engines cut and only strange birdcalls in the distance, I thought "this must be the most peaceful place on earth".

Luckily Chris knew his way out of the water-labyrinth and we reached the Illusions to smell the delicious meal that Desiré was busy preparing.

Day 6:
The MV Illusions had turned her bow southward and I sadly realised that I would have to take leave of this never-never land pretty soon, but there was still a dive or two to be had.

We dived the Southern part of Pemba. The conditions here are much different than on the western protected shoreline. The currents here are very strong and being picked up by the boat you have to be very quick not to compromise the boat and everyone's safety.

This is where the gamefish aggregate. We saw blackfin tuna and a couple of scary-looking dogtooth tuna. There was a school of mackerel. On the reef we saw the many different types of parrotfish eagerly tasting chunks of coral. The brilliantly coloured dottybacks were almost blinding.

The coral had beautiful formations - like a true fairyland, but the clock struck twelve and Cinderella had to leave. The return journey started after 2 very quick dives.

Day 7:
We arrived in Stonetown sometime after midnight when I became vaguely aware that the engines had shut down. Very early on Saturday morning I was woken by the call of the muezzin. I did not understand his language, but I shared in his gratitude. This was an unforgettable holiday and sadly I had to greet my hosts who have become my friends.

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